Climbing on OSMP

History of Climbing in Boulder

Boulder is the site of the earliest recorded climbing in Colorado. Since the turn of the 20th Century, the Flatirons have attracted climbers such as Everest mountaineers Tom Hornbein and David Breashears. As a result, the Flatirons have influenced national climbing standards with their appeal to world-renowned climbers.

This picture of the first climbing club in Boulder was taken at the bottom of the 1st Flatiron. Earl and Floyd Millard made the first known ascent of the infamous 3rd Flatiron in 1906. Since then, the rock has been the destination for climbing enthusiasts world-wide. Some of the more notable ascents include Dale Johnson and Phil Robertson on roller skates (!), a blind man led by Ernest Greenman (who climbed it 101 times), Baker Armstrong without hands, and Baker again at age 60 in 16 minutes.

But don't let these feats cause you to lose your guard: in its long history, the 3rd has also brought many careless climbers to their deaths. It is a multiple-pitch climb that is difficult and time consuming to escape from in bad weather.

Long before bouldering was accepted as a sport distinct from climbing, some of the greatest climbers in history came to Boulder in search of problems. In the late 1950s and 60s, Boulder was frequented by climbers such as Royal Robbins, Corwin Simmons, Bob Beatty, Prince Willman, Ray Northcutt, Dallas Jackson and Bob Culp. Prominent local climbers include Jim Erickson, Layton Kor, and brothers Roger and Bill Briggs. Pat Ament arrived in Boulder in the early 1960s to address the majority of problems found on Flagstaff Mountain. The result was standard-setting bouldering trends. The 1970s brought a gymnastic ability to bouldering as Bob Candelaria and Jim Holloway developed even more difficult problems.

Protecting the resources we love

Open Space and Mountain Parks is a popular destination for climbers and boulderers alike. The diversity of outcroppings and boulder fields allow explorers of any skill level a challenge. With the views of the prairie and the Rocky Mountains as a backdrop, there's much to enjoy, and many people enjoy these areas every year.

Help preserve this experience for all visitors by respecting seasonal raptor and bat closures (updated closure information posted here) and using designated trails when accessing your climb. Social trails can lead to fragmentation of wildlife corridors and indirectly affect wildlife behavior; using the designated access trails will help prevent this.

Follow this link to learn how you can "Leave No Trace" on Open Space and Mountain Parks. Follow this link to learn about climbing in Habitat Conservation Areas (HCAs) and off-trail permits.

Bolted Routes

Open Space and Mountain Parks provides hundreds of bolted and traditional climbing routes to climb and enjoy. In the 1980's there was rapid expansion of people placing bolts. This resulted in a proliferation of bolts, scars on the rock, plants stripped from cliff faces, trampled plants, undesignated trails, erosion and habitat fragmentation. It also created conflict amongst climbers, and between climbers and other visitors. Rules were then enacted that prohibited new fixed protection.

In 2003 a pilot project allowed climbers to apply to place fixed protection in specific designated areas where little additional resource damage could occur. This process resulted in the opportunity to apply for new fixed hardware routes in the designated areas.

To apply for a new route send an email to This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it and a copy to This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it with a description of the route that includes: brief route description with number of new bolts, area, cliff or rock face, detailed description, first name, last name, phone number(s), email address, mailing address, and route photo marked with fixed protection locations. Applications are due the Friday of the second week of March, July and September. The Fixed Hardware Review Committee (FHRC) makes application recommendations to OSMP. For more about the FHRC proces, please visit Flatirons Climbing Council Fixed Hardware Guidelines. OSMP makes the decision on all applications.

It is illegal to place fixed protection without a permit.

Replacing an Unsafe Bolt

If you should come across what you determine to be an unsafe bolt and wish to replace it, download and use this Notification for Bolt Replacement Form (9.73 KB). Should your request be approved, we thank you for wishing to make climbing safer for everyone!

Last Updated on Monday, 30 November 2009 13:03